The LANX Craftsman Collection is proudly made in England using a shoe construction method known as Goodyear welting.
Goodyear welting is a process whereby a shoe upper is sewn to the shoe insole, without having to attach the outsole with the same stitching. The short video above shows the sewing of the welt, a strip of leather which is sewn around the bottom edge of the shoe.
Shoes with a Goodyear welted construction require highly skilled and experienced craftsmen to manufacture them. The biggest benefit of Goodyear welted shoes is that the soles can be completely refurbished. This is because Goodyear welting allows for the upper and sole to be separated from one another without damaging the shoe, meaning that when the time comes for replacing the soles, a new pair can be attached.
In Goodyear welting construction, there is a thin cavity between the insole and the outer sole. This cavity is filled with cork - a material which is lightweight, insulating, moulds to the shape of the foot, and breathes. This means that the more a shoe is worn, the more comfortable it feels.
The first Goodyear welting machines date back to around 1869, when a New York shoemaker, James Hanan, met the American inventor, Charles Goodyear. Hanan showed Goodyear his new sewing machine that differed from all others on the market and the shoe industry was changed forever.
Charles Goodyear quickly purchased the patent (image below) for the machine and after some improvements it soon became the most sought-after piece of shoe-making kit around the world. Many English shoe factories, in historic shoe-making regions like Lancashire and Northamptonshire, adopted the use of his Goodyear welting machines.
Charles Goodyear’s invention has stood the test of time, as shoes that have been made with Goodyear welting construction are still considered to be the most tough, robust and sturdiest shoes in the world.
The LANX Craftsman Collection does demand a higher price than most of our other footwear. This is to cover the high level of skill and much increased time it requires to manufacture a pair of our shoes and boots with Goodyear welting construction.
Throughout the collection we have also used a robust Itshide commando sole and a fantastic selection of unique and quality leathers supplied by the Tannere D’Annonay leather tannery in France (images below). Annonay have been tanners since the 12th century and are renowned for their know-how and tradition in the tanning of calfskin.
Most of the styles in the collection are available immediately both online and in-store, however a few are still being made and can be pre-ordered with a WC 23 August 2021 shipping date predicted. We do also plan to expand the collection with further styles, colours and sizes in the coming months.
